First up is the old standby in every tackle box, the red and white plastic, round bobber. This bobber was introduced in the 1950's when plastic became a common replacement for rubber and cork. Plastic was cheaper to produce and easier to see. Use this one for fishing minnows and other lively bait that need additional floatation to suspend your offering at the desired depth. The larger sizes are often used for floating large shad, shiners and suckers for Northern Pike and Muskie.

    Ever had cold, wet fingers and tried to move a spring bobber to a different depth? Our second tip is replace the spring with a piece of surgical tubing. All you have to do is roll the tube down and one wrap of the line plus the tube tension will keep your bobber in place.

      Another surgical tubing trick is used for still fishing in the shallows. Thread a small piece of surgical tubing (less than a quarter inch in length) over the line and tie on a snap swivel or hook. Slip the bobber into the surgical tube on the bottom spine. Your bobber won't come off and you can easily change depths as desired. By moving the tubing up and down the bottom spine you can change your bobber action to lay flat and indicate shy bites or stand upright and bob vertically. When you want to switch to artificial bait, simply slide the tube over your swivel and you'll have it when you want to use it again. The tube won't kink, cut or stretch your line.

      The Slip Bobber has a hollow core in the spine for the line to be threaded through. Pre-tied nail knots or several other small bobber stops are tied inline with beads to provide buffers between the bobber stop and the hook or swivel. The end with the larger opening goes toward your hook. Thread your stop on first and then a bead, followed by the bobber, another bead and a swivel or hook. A properly tied stop with a slip-on can provide bobber-fishing advantages to depths where the big gills hang out.

      Torpedo casting bobbers bring the advantages of fly-fishing to bait and spin casters. These little gems come in several colors and sizes. I like to tie the larger end of the torpedo to my main line and run between 2 and 3 feet of line between the bobber and fly. You can cast these things a country mile and in the brighter colors, it is quite visible and provides a point of reference for your fly. The small end towards the fly imparts more action when twitching a spider or extended body mayfly to get that strike. It also places the wake farther away from your bait and keeps the fly in calm water.

      One final bobber and we'll hit the water; the Drift bobber is either a slip or clamp- on style bobber with a weight band on the bottom spine. This weight band is helpful when drift fishing in current. It is used quite commonly here in Michigan for Steelhead fishing. The weight band helps the bobber stay upright in current and keeps the bobber and bait in vertical alignment. If you've ever fished a standard bobber in current, you'll see the bobber leaning backwards as the bait leads the bobber through the drift. The next time you're in current, use a drift bobber. Your float and bait will stay vertical and you'll see more bites and set more hooks.